Before be embarked on our trip to the Salar de Uyuni we tried to research the different tour companies as much as we could, one of the main things we learn was not to expect anything of your tour.  Most companies don’t tell you the whole truth about the food or what you will or wont see, once you cross into Bolivia you are in the hands of their contracted driver.  This was the approach we took to the tour, we weren’t expecting to have gourmet meals, hot showers or luxury accommodation, this way we weren’t setting ourselves up for disappointment.  Based on our research and talking to a few people in San Pedro we decided to go with Cordillea traveller for the tour, they seemed to have the best feedback from other travellers.

Welcome to Bolivia

Loading up morning of day one

The first day began at 8am with a bus collecting us and our 15+ litres of water (travellers have to take their own water as this is not supplied by the tour companies) and taking us on a short drive to the Chilean border crossing.  From here it was about an hour in the bus and about 2000m in altitude to the Bolivian border.  San Pedro sits at approximately 2300m and the Bolivian border is at about 4300m, because of this sudden altitude change we’d started taking some drugs to help us acclimatize to the sudden change in altitude.  Not really sure if they helped or not but for the cost of having to piss at every stop I think they were worth taking.

Laguna

At the border we were greeted by a fleet of 80 and 100 series Toyota Landcruisers, if you’re an Nissan Patrol fan Bolivia probably isn’t the place for you as they are few and far between.   Our tour group consisted of Mathieu and Audrey from France, Mike an Olivia from the UK, Yulia, Natasha and ?? from Russia and John and Karen from Seth Efrica and Fan from the US  We were directed to jump in a Cruiser with Mike, Olivia, Mathieu and Audrey.  Audrey and I being the shortest we were given the back seat…three days later my legs were well in need of a good stretch.  The others all piled into the second cruiser.  Our driver didn’t speak a word of English so fortunately for us Olivia was originally from Mexico and spoke excellent Spanish, Mathieu could also speak pretty good Spanish so we were pretty sorted for translations for the next 3 days.

Stinky!

Hot mud

This probably fell off a Nissan

Our journey on day one took us to the highest point of the trip, a little over 4800m near some geysers spewing sulphur and other wonderful gasses into the air, I’m sure if you stood downwind of one of the vents for too long you’d be feeling a whole lot more than altitude sickenss.  We also passed some lagunas and visited a high altitude hot spring. 

High altitude hot springs

Our first night’s accommodation at Laguna Colorada was in  pretty basic hostel, no hot water or electricity for anything other than lighting.  I struggled to get to sleep due to the altitude but judging from the snoring in our room everyone else was coping pretty well.

Night one accomodation

Our group (minus the Russians)

From La Serena it was back onto my favourite mode of transport, the night bus to head to San Pedro de Atacama, the starting point for salt flat tours leaving Chile.  By chance we had managed to book the front seats on the top level of the bus giving us a great view of the drive the following morning and some extra leg room during the night.

Relaxing under the shade in our hostel at San Pedro

San Pedro de Atacama is a bit of a dust bowl tourist trap, the place was swarming with backpackers either coming or going from Bolivia or there to see the sand dunes or surrounding desert.  Fortunately we had done some shopping in La Serena for some supplies for our salt flats trip but there were still a few things we had forgotten to get, ie extra paracetamol that aren’t that easy to come by on a Sunday in the Atacama desert.  For us San Pedro was just a starting point for a tour of the Uyuni salt flats.

Our hostel

Our chosen tour company for the Salar de Uyuni

At some point during our journey we decided that we’d be able to make a quick visit to Bolivia to see the salt flats of Uyuni, this mean skipping a few places in Chile to make time to get in and allow some spare days to get out of Bolivia.  From Santiago we headed north on a day bus to La Serena.  La Serena has a couple of claims to fame, a whole bunch of churches and a bunch of observatories in the nearby hills (for history buffs its also Chile’s third oldest city).  Due to a climatic inversion the valley Elqui Valley, inland of La Serena has over 300 clear nights everywhere, making it a good place to put observatories.  We jumped on a tour up the Elqui Valleyto see some of the sites, taste some Pisco, have a solar cooked meal and of course visit an observatory.

Wind Harp on irrigation dam in Elqui Valley, wind passing through causes strings in the harp to vibrate and make quite an irritating noise

Our meals at the solar restaurant were cooked in these solar ovens

Solar hot plate

Gen sampling some Pisco

The moon..taken with Gen's compact, it actually did a better job through the telescope than the SLR

The day after our observatory tour (and a good sleep in) Gen decided she’d like to have her photo taken with as many of La Serena’s churches as possible.  We made it up to seven and that was more than enough.

Uno

Dos

Tres

Cuatro

Cinco

Seis

Siete

…..they named it Santiago, which of course in German means a whale’s vagina…truth be told the correct Anchorman line is San Diego…but none the less Santiago reminds me of the those words spoken by Ron Burgundy.  For us Santiago meant a new country and a new currency to get out heads around.   One of the first things we noticed was that bus travel was generally a bit cheaper but everything else was more expensive than Argentina.  We had been warned that Chile was more expensive than most other South American countries but it still came as a bit of a shock, activities and tours around Santiago seemed twice as expensive as similar things we had just done in Mendoza.  For this reason I shelved plans of skiing in Chile and we saw Santiago by foot.

The highlight of this was a trip up the funicular railway to the summit of Cerro San Cristóbal to see the view of Santiago from the steps below the giant statue of the Virgin Mary. 

The Virgin Mary watching over Santiago

Santiago from San Cristobal

We also checked out the Museo of Pre Columbian Art which was full of artefacts from the various civilisations that have called South America home throughout the years.

Surprisingly another highlight of our stay in Santiago was our hostel Eco Hostel, for some reason there was a completely different vibe in the hostel than all the places we had stayed in Argentina.  It was here that we met an English couple, Matt and Emily who were in the last few days of their stay in South America.  It was good to talk to people who had recently been to some of the places we were planning on going and who had a similar attitude to ourselves.

Gen's brother Michael told us we had to have a Submarino before we left South America

Mendoza was our final stop in Argentina, next stop Santiago Chile.  We caught a day bus over the border as we’d heard that the scenery was pretty good.  The drive takes you up through the Andes to about 2600m, along the way we passed a couple of ski areas, some with snow, some without (I think global warming might have hit a few of them quite severely) and one with a ski run that went over the top of the highway.

Chinese laundry in our Mendoza hostel

Disused rail line between Argentina and Chile, covered to keep the snow off the tracks I assume

Trucks queuing up at the border

Ski lift running over the highway

The road winding down the hill from the border in the Chilean side

Torres del Paine National Park or Parque Nacional Torres del Paine is in Chilean Patagonia, approximatley 112km Chilean Town of Puerto Natales. Fortunatley for us there were day tours avaliable from El Calafate to Torres del Paine as we hadn´t really planned on going too far into the Chilean side of Patagonia.  We were originally in two minds about doing the tour as it was more expensive than other tours we had done so far ($350 AR) and we were taking a bit of a punt on the weather being good…we were so glad that we did though because it was awesome.  You could easily spend a couple of days there taking photos and just chilling out looking at the view, or alternativley completing the circuit which takes you around the base of the main range and up into the moutains.

Our day started at 5:30am when the van collected us from our hostel in El Calafate, the staff at the hostel looked after us and had put breakfast out very early. The drive was not particularly comfortable as the van was almost full and we were the last pickup, this meant that I ended up in a middle seat without a head rest, the only way I could get any rest was to rest my bag on my lap and lean my head on it. We reached the Argentinean side of the border around 9:20am, the whole process went pretty quickly, we had to present our bags for inspection at the Chilean side as you aren´t allowed to take fruit, vegies, meat etc across the border.  By 10am we were back on the road (in a different, more comfortable van, we changed at the border) headed for Sarmiento Lake to take in the view of Cordillera del Paine, the main mountain range within the Torres del Paine National Park.

Cordillera del Paine from Sarmiento Lake

 

From there it was back in the van to head to the park entry point to pay our $16 USD entry fee.  Along the way we stopped to take some photos of some Guanacos grazing at the side of the road.  The Guanaco is a member of the lama family and is native to much of South America.

Guanacos grazing at the side of the road

A few minutes before we reached the park entry point we stopped at Laguna Amarga to take in another view of Cordillera del Paine, this was one of our last opportunitiesto take in the view of the most famous part of the Cordillera del Paine the Torres del Paine (Towers of Paine) as these cannot be seen from the roads within the park.  The day was so perfect that in the time we were at the viewpoint at Laguna Amarga the few small ripples that were on the lake dissapeared leaving a mirror like reflection of the mountains in the Laguna.

Cordillera del Paine reflected in Laguna Amarga (Torres del Paine in centre of main range)

Further into the park we stopped at a couple of other viewpoints and then we stopped for a short walk at Pudeto to check out the view across the small frozen lake.  Our guide also demonstrated that skipping rocks across the frozen lake made a really cool sound that hopefully we captured on video.  Our walking route also took us past the Salto Grande waterfall which got me thinking about paddling when we get to Canada, as everyone was checking out the view I was trying to get close enough to the falls to see if there was a line over them.

Gen taking in the view at Torres del Paine

Salto Grande waterfall

From here it was further into the park towards the park administration, interestingly the administration building is a former farmhouse from the days before the area was a national park.  After visiting the park administration and getting a stamp in our passports it was back into the van for the long trek back to El Calafate.  We left three people at the Chilean border as they were continuing to Puerto Natales, at least one of them was catching a 3 day boat up to Puerto Montt in Chile.  Had we known that this was only $300 USD we probably would have done it as well but we already had flights booked to Bariloche from El Calafate….oh well we can do that when we come back to go walking.

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